In spite of my nice settings, I had a very bad night. There were strong winds which buffeted my tent and since it only has a single pole it makes lots of noise when flapping in the breeze, which happens even when it is properly staked. I thought that this was inauspicious and sure enough the morning dawned with – surprise, surprise – a very strong headwind for me. Ho hum.

I decided to have an early start and so after a light breakfast of dried fruit I packed up and carefully wheeled my bike through the cactus, hoisted it over the fence, and was on the road by 7 a.m. Even though the terrain was relatively flat, I could only manage an average speed of 14 km/h with the headwind. Not an auspicious start to the day, but at least I only had 100 km to go. I’d done it before in Utah under situations like this so I knew that I would make it; I would probably just have sore knees by the end of it!

On my map was marked a number of communities and I hoped to find a gas station or café where I would be able to get something to eat. No such luck I’m afraid and so I cycled through Briggsdale and Buckingham. I reached the town of New Raynor about 10:30 where there was a Café’ but it was closed. I had a break on their front lawn and finished off my last tin of vegetarian ‘meat’. I had managed to come 50 km in 3.5 h and the hard work was making me quite hungry. I began to get a bit concerned about water since I was down to 2 L with 50 km to go; but the only option was a soda machine next to the road and I decided to go thirsty rather than resort to those chemical concoctions. My one try 2 weeks ago in Nevada was still fresh on my mind …

The area was extremely dry and most of it was in grassland. I passed the occasional farm growing wheat and/or corn, but they were the exception rather than the rule. I observed that with the wheat they would have strips of about 100 m of crop and then 100 m of soil followed by crops, etc. I later learned that this was standard ‘dry farming’ technique where you can only get one crop every 2 years from the soil. It also serves to reduce the amount of topsoil loss due to the wind, such as was experienced in the Dust Bowl of 1931. There was no irrigation anywhere, except the occasional windmill which was providing water for stock, although there were oil pumps every now and then.

At times like these when there is not much to observe one’s mind tends to wander. I mentally worked on some business plans as well as running through a range of songs to sing. It’s amazing how few songs I know all the words to. Not that it matters when you are in the middle of nowhere and there is nobody to hear you!

Near Stoneham there was a café an I stopped and had a cold drink. It was wonderful. The temperature outside was in the low 30’s with not a cloud in the sky but I didn’t realise how hot it was until I left the café to continue my trip. While having my drink I looked at a very detailed map book of the U.S. and ‘planned’ my forward travels. After Lincoln I’ll head due east through southern Idaho into Illinois. I’ll then follow the Illinois River NE into Michigan. Then again, I may not …

Refreshed, I continued my ride east. The wind was running at a lower level now and I made much better progress. As throughout Colorado – and most of the U.S. – the road was smooth with a wide shoulder which, coupled with the low traffic levels, made cycling a pleasure. It was slightly up and down, but after the Rockies I have a new perspective on what a grade is!

Passing over the Pawnee Creek – which was completely dry – I noticed a marker at the side of the road to two Colorado Department of Highways staff who were killed while reconstructing the bridge. It reminded me of something one of the Stop/Go sign people had told me. Over 800 people are killed each year in the U.S. working on road construction, and most of these are due to drivers (often drunk) hitting them. That is one of the reasons why on entering a construction zone there are signs saying ‘Fines Doubled In Construction Zone’. He told me how someone once passed a pilot vehicle to get through the zone quicker. They were given a fine of $USD 2,500. Ouch.

As I approached Sterling irrigation became more common and eventually the road widened to a divided highway. I knew I was close. I passed by the Country Club and saw some women out golfing. It is one of many courses that I have seen in my travels and there is one common thread: everyone to date has been driving about in an electric golf cart. Why is exercise such an anathema in this country? I mean the professional golfers walk the courses so surely that should be an example? End of diatribe.

On the outskirts of Sterling there was a Walmart which advertised that it was open 24 h per day, 7 days per week. For those unfamiliar with Walmart it is a huge chain of stores which offers everything imaginable at very low prices (due to its buying power). I would say that the most common trucks that I have seen on my travels have been those emblazoned with the Walmart logo. They aren’t always popular, particularly with local retailers who cannot compete on price, and in many places they have gutted the existing business districts. Some years ago I was told that the state of Vermont has legislation which effectively precludes Walmart from opening in the state, and many cities are now passing ordinances restricting the development of such mega-stores.

My first impression of Sterling was that this town likes to eat out. Coming in on Highway 14 I passed, and not in this order, McDonalds, Burger King, Dairy Queen, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Arby’s, Subway Submarine, Taco Bell, Taco John, Wendy’s, Pizza Hut, Domino’s Pizza, plus countless other less famous eateries. Nothing for vegetarians though …

The town didn’t seem to have a central business district and I cycled around looking for a tourist information centre, or at least a map so I could get oriented. Nothing except some confusing one-way streets. There was a nice old courthouse and some impressive buildings but by and large the city seemed soulless. Since it was Friday night I had decided to stay in a Motel for my rest day, but I couldn’t find one!

Seeing a sign for the Interstate I decided that if there were to be motels they would be out that way. Sure enough a few km out of town I saw some signs indicating motels ahead. I stopped at a gas station and called a few but they were all fully booked or else only had smoking rooms. No thanks. In the end I got an overpriced room at the Day’s Inn and after a visit to the Tourist Centre across from the gas station I cycled to the motel and checked in.

Although it was only late afternoon I was quite tired from the riding so after a shower to remove the grit and grime I lazed about the room and worked on my journal and read. It was also laundry time but they had no soap powder for sale. Not to worry; shampoo makes a suitable alternative, although the whites don’t come out as white.

For dinner I cycled up the road to the ‘Country Kitchen’ in the (forlorn) hope that they would have something vegetarian. Their 10 page menu was a carnivore’s delight, and so I had to explain my predicament to the waitress. She had this horrified look (which I have seen too often) and I suggested she ask the chef what they could make with no meat, chicken or fish. After what seemed to be an eternity she said they could do me a spaghetti with tomato sauce and a salad. Hurray! Not pizza for a change. By normal standards it was forgettable, but I was hungry and pleased to have something a little different. Oh, I must mention something I’ve learned about salads.

When one orders a salad here there are a wide array of dressings that one can have. I have learned never to ask them for dressing on the salad, even if you say ‘only a little’ since their definition of a little is invariably quite different to mine. This was a case in point. I asked her to bring me a little salad dressing in a side dish which she did, but it would have lasted me for about 10 salads. At least I am learning …

After dinner I stopped at the gas station to buy a toothbrush and a map. The place was a mad house since they also had a submarine shop as well as selling petrol. People were all over the place while two harried women tried to service them all. I think that it is so wrong for companies to be understaffed like this. I contrasted it with the Wendy’s I had lunch at yesterday when they were way overstaffed. I guess in service businesses it is difficult to achieve the right balance. Eventually I paid and then it was back to the hotel for an early night.