Day 14: Near Divide to Elk Horn Hot Springs - 52 miles
We had a visitor arrive just as we were leaving, a handsome chestnut coloured horse. He came up to Sean who gave him some attention and then headed over towards the gate which I was already through, obviously keen to get out. After many attempts at moving him away Sean had to park his bike and get a bit more aggressive; the horse then galloped off into the field. A very impressive animal.
Our trip took us south along the road adjacent to the interstate towards the town of Divide. The road had an excellent smooth paved surface and we made good time. It would have been better time but we still had a headwind, although much less than the previous day.
We passed a home which looked more like a curio shop. They had all sorts of strange things in the yard, ranging from miniature windmills to wagon wheels, to models of wells, etc. Very unusual to say the least. Later in the day we passed another similar place, but they were into machinary and had bedecked their property in all sorts of old machines ranging from plows to motors to tractors.
Our water supplies were low and we needed to replenish them in Dillon. The only thing open at that time of the morning was a fishing shop and the proprietor said that his water wasn't drinkable. Conveniently, he had bottled water for sale so we purchased some of that and recharged our hydration packs enough to get us to the next town.
The route took us along the Big Hole river and was a delight to cycle. The grades weren't too steep, the road was good, and the traffic was light. It wound its way through the river gorge, in places widening as we entered valleys before closing up again. This was the 'alternative' route to the trail recommended by the route planners, and I was pleased that we were on it. The trail would have been impossible with my broken rack, but we had also decided against it the day before anyway since it had shades of what we experienced a few days before. Given that this time the planners warned the cyclists about how bad the route would be we were suitably daunted.
There were a number of fisherman in the river, or floating down it on boats. I saw one man pulling out a good sized fish, although I have no idea what it was. The number of fishing lodges adjacent to the route also testify to the fact that this is a fishing mecca.
We eventually reached the town of Wise River where I had hoped to get my bike fixed. Not much chance. The town was a few houses, a grocery store, and a saloon/cafe/gift shop. At the grocery store we met three other cyclists who were out for a three day ride from the town of Missoula. It was great chatting with them and one had actually worked in Australia for a year. They advised us that the cycle ahead of us wasn't bad at all, in spite of the long climb, and that we were going to be treated to some fantastic scenary. They weren't wrong.
For lunch we stopped at the cafe. Sean had a chicken hamburger while I had a delightful vegetable sandwhich. When I first asked the waiter what he had for vegetarians he was less than helpful, but the cook did much better so I complemented her afterwards. Refuelled, we were on the road again, heading for our destination which was still 33 miles away.
The first 25 miles of the cycling was basically uphill all the way. We ascended just under 2000', so for most of the route the gradient was relatively gentle and we were able to make good time, in spite of the headwind. With a river running next to the road, tree clad mountains all around, it really was a delightful cycle. The photo below is an example of what we experienced. Sean commented that it was just like out of a western movie.
At one point we came across a garbage bag which had been dropped on the road. Beer cans, most empty but some full, we spread all over the road along with a few bottles and some broken glass. Sean and I played tidy kiwis and cleared the road before going on. I've been pleasantly surprised by how little garbage there is on the roadside in Montana compared with some of the other states I've cycled through. This of course could be due to the lack of people, but I don't think so.
Being a scenic route, they have put some historical signs. At one point we read of an early settler in the area who lost his wife to diptheria, his children to typhoid but stayed on and persevered. We visited the grave site, but none of the markers had any names on them. I commented to Sean that after 3 generations individuals are forgotten. The Bible says that we are like a 'mist' which vanishes, and this is so true.
After summiting the final steep grade (7500'), we entered into a 6 mile 'plateau' with minor/moderate ups and downs. It was a good thing as our enthusiasm was flagging. The area had great alpine meadows with an outline of mountains along the horizon (see below).
At 'Crystal Park' we stopped for a break. This is a place were locals come to collect crystals. There were several people there with shovels and I asked one of them to show me his findings. It was most interesting. The quartz crystals were clear with flat sides and pointed ends. He also had an amethyst which was purple in colour. The crystals were destined for jewelry. This was only their second time digging crystals; normally they went for sapphires which are found near Helena.
Onwards we went and eventually reached the downhill section. Since this was unsealed I took it slowly, not wanting to cause problems for my temporary rack repair, while Sean zoomed off. We met again at a lookout which showed the valley we will be cyling through tomorrow. It was spectacular.
Eventually we reached the turnoff to Elk Horn Hot Springs and cycled up the unsealed road to the springs. The place had a 'tired' look about it but we were not about to complain. We got a room in the lodge and grabbed dinner before hitting the hot pools. It was worth the effort and we both felt a lot better for it. After sorting out some problems with the business in NZ and calling Lis I crashed.
We have now completed 14 days of cycling without rest, covering over 500 miles of mountains, averaging one mountain crossing per day. We had planned on a rest day tomorrow for my birthday, but will instead head to the town of Dillon where there are more ammenities than at the springs. Fortunately, we've done the hardest bit of the route and although what remains takes us higher -- to over 11,000' -- there won't be the demands of so many mountain crossings. Here's hoping anyway.