Day 1: Roosville to Birch Creek - 27 miles
It's a good thing that they didn't come in on us while this was happening as the room was not very large and we had all of our gear spread out in every available place. The bikes had come through the long trip without any problems but it was still quite an undertaking to get them reassembled, panniers packed and loaded.
We then wheeled them fully laden into the corridor where we measured the wheel circumference to calibrate the odometers. In spite of the fact that we did this right outside the advertising office, the management didn't mind. I guess that they get all sorts of people up this way.
Once loaded we headed out to stock up on supplies. Our first port of call was a petrol (gas) station where we filled the 1 litre fuel bottle for my stove. With Sean operating the pump we managed to get 1 litre in the bottle, and an equivalent amount sprayed over the bottle and onto the forecourt. It was one of their best sales of the day--$0.51.
It was then into town to find the local Mailboxes etc. where I couriered my notebook computer back to the company in NZ. I kept my Libretto palmtop which I'm using for this journal. It was hideously expensive but I had very limited options.
During the packing I found that a number of things were missing (left in Samoa or NZ) so we went shopping for some key things like bear spray (a mace pepper spray designed for bears), rope to hang our food in trees, sun tan lotion, mosquito repellant, spare clothes, and of course food.
The food trip was quite an eye opener. In NZ we have only a few things to choose from so it makes life very easy. However, in the USA they are spoiled for choice. For example we were looking for energy bars and there would have been about 40 different types/flavours to choose from. In the end we just grabbed a bunch. Sean later found that some of his selection were specially designed for women so he commented that if he starts growing breasts we know why...
Our ride collected us at 13:00 and we headed north towards the border. En route we ate out lunch and sorted out some of the food we bought into panniers and then I dozed off for a well earned sleep. Just before 15:00 we arrived at the border which was a very non-descript place. There was a bar which Sean went into to get a soft drink but he found it very dark and dodgey, suggesting that I give it a miss. We had our photos taken at the border (below) and then started our trip!
The trip started at airport road and we headed west and then south. The terrain was rolling and there was a headwind but it was not too bad and the absence of traffic made the trip a joy. We were on sealed roads which made it quite easy cycling, at least compared to what we are expecting, and we made good time.
We were in a valley with mountains to either side of us. The ones to the east were of the most interest as those were the ones we would be crossing. You can see them below in the photo of Sean riding.
The country side between the mountains was very similar to the grasslands that I cycled in Nebraska 2 years ago. Golden grass swaying in the breeze--a sign of the drought they have had. Selfishly, I hope it continues since it makes for pleasant cycling.
We passed many farms but the only animals we saw were a few cattle and the largest crows that Sean had ever seen. I recalled the time Lis and I were in Burma and she used to feed the crows on the balcony of our hotel at Inya Lake. Their blackness is such that they look almost evil--I know that this isn't rational, but they are not a bright, happy bird.
The route eventually rejoined Highway 93 near Eureka and we passed through the town. I looked delightful with a great health food shop and an enticing book shop, but we were short of time so continued on. After passing the museum we crossed the Tobacco River where I saw someone pulling out about 4 large fish on a single line. Must have had a most successful day.
The route followed the old highway which was an up and down venture, but not too bad. There were pine forests on either side and it was great to smell the earthiness and sweet scent. Cycling one is so much part of the environment that the experiences are quite unique.
After 20 miles we headed onto Grave Creek road which wound its way through green farmland with cattle and horses. The photo below is of an old homestead we passed. You can see the cattle in the backround and the mountains we cross tomorrow.
Instead of staying at Grove Creek campground we decided to press on, but we did stop there for some refreshments. There was a bridge over the river which I sat on thinking of my wife Lis--she has this urge to cross any interesting bridge. There was the warning poster below about bears. We took comfort from the fact that Grizzly Bears can be identified from the length of the claw--it is seldom less than 1.75" whereas the less agressive Black Bears seldom have claws more than 1.25". Of course by the time one has established the length of the claw it is probably an academic exercise as to what type of bear is close enough to show you his or her claw!
The road wound upwards and it was fairly difficult going with lots of huffing and puffing. There were two options for camping; one at 27 miles and the second at 42 miles. Since the latter required us to cross the divide--climbing another 1000+ feet we decided that discretion was the better part of valour and camped at Birch Creek.
I got to try out my new stove which worked like a charm and hardly used any petrol. Sean made some watery pasta while I went searching for water. I managed to find some unripe blueberries but although I could hear the stream, it was too far into the bush and I decided to give it a miss.
With this being bear country, it is necessary to suspend our food at least 10' off the ground, and 5' from the nearest tree. One would think that being a campground they would have in place something to allow for this. After a fruitless search I opted to dump our bags in the toilet block, my reasoning being that the smell would distract the bears. This proved to be the case as they were still there the next morning.
As we were hunkering down a ranger came by and Sean chatted with them. They had been out collecting huckleberries, a local delicacy (also enjoyed by bears) but didn't offer Sean any. They did offer lots of advice and afterwards he commented how he appreciated Americans.
So ended our first day on the road. It was tiring and we still have a ways to go in order to get our cycling fitness up but it's great to be alive and back in this wonderful and beautiful country.
